How much honey does a beehive need to survive winter

How much different guidance recommends

The UK's National Bee Unit (NBU) puts the general rule at about 20 kg of honey per colony in autumn. Its feeding guideline gives the range as 18 to 22 kg (39.6 to 48.4 lb) and notes that larger colonies headed by prolific queens may need more. The NBU is clear that less than this reduces the chance of the colony surviving unless it is fed, and that real consumption varies with conditions.

Colder places need more. University of Florida extension, writing about overwintering in northern climates, says there should generally be about 90 pounds of honey reserves for a colony in the North, because the bees cannot forage in winter. University of Georgia Extension, for its milder climate, gives a different kind of figure: colonies should weigh at least 100 pounds in late fall. That is a weight for the colony as a whole, not a honey target.

Stores also have to last into spring. The NBU warns that colonies use up reserves fast in March and April as brood rearing picks up, and that a colony should still have at least four to five combs of stores, about 9 kg or 20 lb, at that point.

The simplest way to reach these figures is to leave them in the hive. The NBU says it is preferable to leave sufficient honey rather than make up the difference with sugar later, and to check that enough stores remain every time you take a honey crop.

Counting frames: how much honey a frame holds

Counting capped frames is the easiest way to start. The NBU gives these figures: a full British Standard brood frame holds about 2.3 kg of honey, a super frame about 1.2 kg, and a full super at least 12 kg. Larger Commercial or Langstroth brood frames can hold up to 3 kg.

By the NBU's own arithmetic, one full super plus three full brood frames of honey should be enough on its own. A hive with only three full brood frames holds about 6.9 kg and is about 13.1 kg short of that target.

Location matters as much as quantity. University of Florida extension explains that the winter cluster moves up through the hive as it eats, so stores need to sit above and beside the cluster, and it advises removing queen excluders after the last nectar flow so the queen is not left below them.

Hefting and the lift test

Hefting means lifting one side of the hive slightly to judge its weight. The NBU recommends learning it alongside frame counts: count frames first, feel what that weight is like, and over time hefting alone will tell you roughly where stores stand. Heft one side and then the other in case stores are uneven, and use a safe lifting technique, because hives can be heavier than expected.

University of Florida extension describes a version called the lift test. Try to lift the colony with one hand using the handle on the back of the bottom box. If the hive is difficult to rock forward with one hand, it likely has enough food for winter.

Once autumn feeding is done, the NBU suggests hefting each hive to learn the weight it should hold through winter, then hefting every other week. A colony that is getting noticeably light is likely to need feeding with fondant.

Closing the gap with syrup

The NBU's method is to count existing stores, work out the shortfall, and feed that balance back as winter-strength syrup: 1 kg of white granulated sugar to 630 ml of water, or 2 pounds per pint. University of Florida and University of Georgia extension both give the US version as 2 parts sugar to 1 part water for fall feeding, and Georgia uses 1 to 1 for regular feeding.

As a worked example, 13.1 kg of NBU-strength syrup takes about 8 kg of sugar and 5.1 liters of water. The NBU does not give a factor for how much stored food a kilo of syrup becomes, so heft again once the bees have taken it down.

Timing matters. The NBU says the weather must be warm enough for bees to take syrup down and store it, that September suits much of the UK, and that feeding too early tends to be turned into brood. Beyond mid-October bees may not be able to process syrup properly, so if stores are still short by the end of October, fondant is the NBU's answer. Syrup should not be fed in winter, when it is too cold for the bees to use it and it can go moldy in the feeder. Feed in the evening and clean up spills to reduce robbing.

Common winter stores mistakes

Counting stores and ignoring bees. Food is only half of it. The NBU says colonies with fewer than 9,000 bees, about three full British Standard brood frames of bees, have a poor chance of surviving winter, and suggests going in with at least five brood frames covered in bees. University of Florida extension considers 25,000 to 30,000 bees an adequate size.

Missing isolation starvation. The NBU describes colonies that starve with honey still in the hive because the cluster has moved away from it during cold weather. Hefting will not show this. A look inside on a warmer day will.

Using one number everywhere. The figures above come from different climates. Use the guidance written for yours, and treat any single number as a starting point. HiveScribe's calculation card uses the same approach: count the frames of stores and enter the number, and it shows the recommended reserve for your climate zone, the shortfall in kilograms, and the sugar and water for a heavy syrup to close it, with the source documents listed under View sources.

This guide covers stores and feeding as described in public National Bee Unit and university extension guidance. Anything to do with pests, treatments or medicines belongs with your local beekeeping association and the official guidance for your area.

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