How to make a lash map for eyelash extensions

What a lash map records

A lash map is the plan you work from before the first extension goes on. It splits the lash line into zones and gives each zone three specifications: a curl, written as a letter such as J, B, C or D; a length in millimetres; and a diameter, the thickness of the extension, also in millimetres. Those choices depend on the client's eye shape, the look they want, and how much their natural lashes can carry.

The map is usually written as a row of lengths from the inner corner to the outer corner, for example 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 11, 10. The Lash Affair artist blog argues that concrete maps like this are what separate guesswork from a result you can reproduce on every fill.

Many artists draw the zones straight onto the under-eye pad or tape. Light Heart Lash's guide for beginners recommends a fine-point marker made for skin or pads to outline the sections once the client's eyes are closed. Whatever is drawn on the pad leaves with the pad, so copy the numbers onto a record if you want them next time.

How to divide the eye into zones

Lash Affair suggests dividing the eye into five to seven sections and placing the transitions at natural landmarks: the inner corner, the inner edge of the iris, the center of the pupil, the outer edge of the iris, and the outer corner. Using landmarks rather than equal slices keeps the map tied to the client's own eye, which matters when the two eyes are not identical.

For a first map, five zones are enough. Light Heart Lash gives a balanced five-zone example of 8, 9, 10, 9 and 8 mm from inner to outer corner, which puts the longest lashes in the center and tapers both ways.

More zones give finer control over where the length rises and falls. Whatever number you choose, number the zones the same way every time so that zone 3 on today's map means the same stretch of lashes as zone 3 on the map from three weeks ago.

Choosing a length for each zone

Start from the natural lashes, not from the style photo. Lash Affair's guideline is that an extension should never be more than roughly 2 mm longer than the natural lash it is attached to, and warns that going beyond that adds weight that weakens the natural lash and causes premature shedding. SENSELASHES, writing for beginners, puts the limit at natural length plus 2 to 3 mm, and gives examples such as 10 to 12 mm extensions for medium natural lashes of 7 to 9 mm.

Then shape the progression. For an almond eye, Lash Affair offers a starting point of 7 to 8 mm at the inner corner, 10 mm at the inner edge of the iris, a peak of 11 to 14 mm depending on the strength of the natural lashes, 10 to 11 mm at the outer edge of the iris, and 9 to 10 mm at the outer corner.

The extension chart published by BL Lashes lists lengths from 5 to 20 mm, with 11 and 12 mm the most popular. It recommends the shorter 5 to 9 mm range for inner corners and 9 to 13 mm for most of the set.

Choosing curl and diameter

Curl sets how much lift the eye gets. BL Lashes describes J as the most natural looking curl, B as a soft lift, C as an open eye effect, D as a curlier version of C, and U as the curliest. L and L+ curls have a flat base and are meant for hooded lids, deep-set eyes and older clients. You can change curl between zones, for example a softer curl in the inner corner and a stronger one at the peak.

Diameter controls weight. BL Lashes calls 0.15 mm the most popular classic thickness, and lists 0.03 to 0.07 mm for volume fans. SENSELASHES advises 0.15 mm for most classic work, 0.12 mm for fine or short natural lashes, 0.10 mm for 2D fans and no more than 0.07 mm for 3D fans.

Write the curl and diameter into the map as well as the length. A set that looks right but used a different diameter from last time will not behave the same way at the fill.

Matching the map style to the eye shape

Most maps are variations on a few styles. Lash Affair describes an open or natural eye as longest in the center, a cat eye as longest at the outer corner, a doll eye as a uniform length across the center section, and a squirrel eye as peaking slightly past the center toward the outer third.

Its eye shape pairings are a useful starting point: cat eye or squirrel for round or close-set eyes, doll or open eye with a strong curl for hooded or monolid eyes, squirrel or open eye for downturned eyes, natural or doll for wide-set eyes, and almost any style for almond eyes.

The most common error is at the outer corner. Lash Affair warns that going too long there on downturned eyes makes the droop more visible, and Light Heart Lash likewise advises against an overly long outer corner that can pull the eye shape down.

Recording the map so the next fill matches

A map only helps if it survives the appointment. According to Lash Affair, most clients come back for a fill every 2 to 3 weeks, so the next appointment is soon and the details are easy to forget. SENSELASHES recommends noting measurements on the client card, in a form such as inner 6 mm, center 8 mm, outer 7 mm, and keeping a record of the sizes used for every client.

Record the style, the curl, length and diameter for each zone, and the adhesive, and note anything you changed from the previous visit and why. Light Heart Lash's warning to watch your markings so you do not mix up lengths applies twice: once on the pad and once when you copy the numbers down.

If you keep paper records, Lash Client Forms, a printable set sold on Etsy, includes a lash map showing both closed eyes with nine numbered zones each and one row per zone for curl, length and thickness, with room for two sessions on a page. Its client record card holds the glue, curl, length and thickness used and six rows of visit history.

A lash map is a styling record, not a medical or legal document. Rules on client records, patch testing and consent differ by state, province and country, and this guide is not legal or medical advice. Check your local licensing requirements and talk to a qualified professional about what your paperwork needs to include.

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